Bjoka Khoche: Discover One of Bhutan's Oldest Noble Mansions
Step inside Bjoka Khoche, an 18th-century noble mansion in Zhemgang, Bhutan. Learn about its fascinating history, traditional architecture, and the bamboo artisans who keep local traditions alive.
Bjoka Khoche is a historic traditional mansion associated with a noble lineage in Bjoka Gewog, Panbang Dungkhag (sub-district), Zhemgang, in the central part of Bhutan. The ancestral residence is approximately 50 kilometres from the Panbang town junction, depending on the route taken, and can be reached in about one and a half hours by road. The journey winds through dense subtropical forests and remote villages, offering visitors a glimpse of Bhutan's rich natural landscape before arriving at the historic estate.
The three-storey mansion, built in the 18th century, stands as an important example of Bhutanese traditional architecture and reflects the region's cultural heritage, craftsmanship, and historical significance.
The Historic Mansion
Bjoka Khoche Manor has become a quiet attraction for both locals and visitors. With one half of its walls painted black and the other creamy white, the 18th-century residence of the Bjoka Khoche (nobility) remains an enduring symbol of heritage, having withstood the relentless test of time and the changing seasons.
Bjoka is one of the most remote villages in Zhemgang District. The area is renowned for its pristine subtropical forests, dramatic waterfalls, and rich bamboo craftsmanship.
The manor is considered one of the oldest privately owned traditional houses in Bhutan. The Khoche clan is a noble lineage historically believed to descend from Lhasey Tsangma, a Tibetan prince.
Built in two distinct styles, one half with large black stone slabs and the older section with smaller white stone slabs, the manor reflects stories of the past that are still preserved in local memory.
According to local tradition, the mansion has two distinct sections. The side built with larger stones was constructed by Bhutanese craftsmen, while the section built with smaller stones was the work of Assamese labourers, who used smaller rocks because large stones were scarce in the plains.
A Walk Through Time
To enter the house, visitors must climb a narrow wooden ladder leading to a small balcony before reaching the main entrance. Inside, the rooms are dimly lit, with only thin streams of light filtering through the windows and softening the darkness.
Several rooms occupy the lower floor, while another wooden ladder leads to the upper level, where a spacious kitchen stands. Though no longer in use, it still retains its traditional mud-built stove, serving as a quiet reminder of the past. Beyond it, a small balcony opens onto sweeping views of the surrounding landscape. A few more rooms remain locked and untouched by time. Adjacent to this older section is another spacious kitchen that continues to be used daily.
One small room, once used as a detention cell, remains locked. Bare and cramped, it has neither windows nor toilet facilities, offering a stark reminder of the austere conditions once endured by those confined there.
In total, the house contains more than 20 rooms spread across three storeys, its timber beams and stone walls carrying the weight of centuries. Yet despite its size, only two people now call it home: Meme Sangay and his wife, both in their late seventies and eighties. In the quiet corners of the old house, their presence forms a living bridge to its long and layered history.
Today, the once-bustling ancestral home stands remarkably quiet. Their children have all grown up, married, and settled in different parts of Bhutan, returning only occasionally to visit their ageing parents and the family home.
The Bamboo Craft Heritage
The area surrounding Bjoka Khoche is home to a small community where nearly every household is engaged in bamboo craftsmanship. What was once a tradition centred on producing a limited range of everyday utility items has gradually evolved into a thriving cottage industry.
Today, artisans create a wide variety of functional and decorative bamboo products, including gift items for commercial markets. While preserving traditional weaving techniques, they have diversified their designs to meet changing consumer preferences, providing an important source of income while keeping this centuries-old craft alive.
Bamboo craftsmanship remains a way of life in the community. For generations, families have relied on weaving and carving bamboo as a primary source of livelihood. Today, they continue to produce both traditional household items and contemporary decorative pieces, ensuring that this rich cultural tradition is passed on to future generations.
