Chumey Weavers Revive Traditional Wool Dyeing as Bumthang's Yathra Heritage Faces New Challenges

Women weavers in Bhutan's Chhumey Valley are reviving traditional natural wool dyeing techniques to preserve the heritage of Yathra weaving and strengthen future economic opportunities.

The decline of sheep rearing in Bhutan's Bumthang district is affecting more than rural livelihoods. It is also threatening a centuries-old textile tradition that has long defined the identity of Chhumey Valley.

Yathra, the distinctive handwoven wool textile produced in Chhumey Gewog, is one of Bhutan's most recognised traditional crafts. Known for its bold geometric patterns, vibrant colours, and durability, Yathra is used to make cushions, bags, rugs, jackets, and other household and fashion items. The craft has been passed down through generations and remains an important source of income for many families in the valley.

Traditionally, Yathra production depended on locally reared sheep. Their wool was spun by hand and coloured using natural dyes extracted from plants, roots, bark, and other locally available materials. As sheep numbers declined and commercial yarns and synthetic dyes became more widely available, the practice of natural wool dyeing gradually disappeared from many communities.

Today, efforts are underway to revive that knowledge.

Returning to Traditional Dyeing Techniques

Around 30 women weavers from Chhumey Gewog recently participated in a training programme on natural wool dyeing organised by the Department of Media, Creative Industry and Intellectual Property (DoMCIIP).

During the training, participants learned how to extract colours from locally available plants, including mugwort, which has traditionally been used by weavers in the valley. Natural dyeing requires careful preparation of both the wool and dye materials, with different plants producing a range of colours depending on the season, processing method, and mordants used.

The practice was once a routine part of Yathra production.

"The famed Bumthap Yathra has been produced in Chhumey Gewog for years. We depend on it, even to date. As we have been practising it since childhood, we are keen to keep the tradition alive. We can learn if we are given the opportunity. By doing so, we can pass on the skills to our children in the future," said Jangchu Dema, Resident, Chhumey Gewog, Bumthang.

"If we know the process of dyeing, we can also use it to dye other yarns besides Yathra. So, there are opportunities to produce naturally dyed yarns for other weavers as well," said Chonga Lhamo, Resident, Chhumey Gewog, Bumthang.

Protecting a Unique Bhutanese Craft

The training is also linked to ongoing efforts to secure Geographical Indication (GI) certification for naturally dyed Yathra produced in Chhumey.

A Geographical Indication is a form of intellectual property protection that recognises products whose quality, reputation, or characteristics are closely linked to a specific place of origin. If obtained, GI certification could help distinguish authentic Chhumey Yathra from imitations while strengthening market recognition for local artisans.

"We are focusing on empowering people on GI-based commodities and products. It not only preserves age-old traditions and cultures. It will also enhance community vitality and economic opportunities," said Sonam Penjor, Director, DoMCIIP, MoICE.

What Visitors Can Experience in Chhumey Valley

For travellers interested in Bhutan's textile heritage, Chhumey Valley offers one of the country's most accessible opportunities to see traditional weaving practices firsthand.

Visitors can stop at family-run weaving houses and workshops along the road between Jakar and Chhumey, where local artisans continue to weave Yathra on traditional looms. Depending on the season and production schedules, visitors may also be able to observe wool preparation, spinning, and dyeing activities.

Yathra products can be purchased directly from weaving households, local cooperatives, and handicraft outlets in Chhumey and Jakar. Buying directly from artisans helps support the continuation of traditional skills and provides visitors with an authentic piece of Bhutanese craftsmanship.

Popular purchases include:

• Handwoven Yathra cushions and cushion covers

• Rugs and floor mats

• Bags and accessories

• Jackets and outerwear

• Table runners and home décor items

Keeping Traditional Knowledge Alive

The revival of natural wool dyeing represents more than a return to traditional production methods. It is part of a broader effort to preserve cultural knowledge that has shaped life in Bumthang for generations.

As younger weavers learn skills that were once at risk of disappearing, communities in Chhumey are working to ensure that Yathra remains both a living tradition and a viable source of income for the future.

The initiative demonstrates how cultural preservation and economic development can work together, helping safeguard one of Bhutan's most distinctive textile traditions while creating new opportunities for local artisans.